If the shirt fits....

It is a favourite pastime among people frequenting style and fashion forums on the internet to ask for a critique of the fit of a shirt. The replies to such question are always of great interest as it shows that one man's definition of 'correct' fit may be somewhat different to another's.

There are two measurements that most people do seem to agree with and that is the collar sizing and the shoulder - and probably for good reason. The collar is one of the most important features of a shirt - whether a bespoke shirt or a ready-to-wear shirt the collar has to be right which means a fit where the thumb can fit comfortably between the neck and the collar. This will ensure that there is no gape at the neck and also the collar will be comfortable. Most people wear shirts with collars too tight and is a large contributor to people believing that wearing a tie is uncomfortable.

The shoulders are also important as they provide a foundation for all the other parts of the shirt - it is from the shoulders that the shirt hangs. If this is correct then the shirt can always be altered in other areas to achieve the desired fit. Note that ready-to-wear shirts do not have any variation in shoulder widths - they either fit, or more likely, do not fit. The shoulder (or yoke) of the shirt should meet the top of the sleeve at the same point that the wearers arm joins the shoulder.

Get these two right and the next to check is sleeve length - if it is too short then the shirt is never going to fit you (unless you go for a costly re-sleeve). If it is too long a tailor should be able to shorten for you. The length of sleeve required is oft debated on the forums but most people opt for a sleeve that reaches just lower than where the wrist joins the hand. In any case this should be 1/4 inch or so longer than your suit sleeves.

The other main measurements are chest, waist, seat and back length. These are really a case of personal preference and dependant on the use of the shirt - i.e business, casual etc.

Typically for a 'fitted' shirt we will make bespoke shirts with a 3 to 4 inch allowance in the chest and waist and 2 to 3 for the seat but it really does depend on the wearers personal preference and their build. A too tight shirt is definitely worse than a too loose shirt, that is for sure.

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